A few simple steps can extend your bass guitar’s life – and your enjoyment of it. Wash your hands before playing, wipe down the fretboard, and use contact cleaner spray on any potentiometers whose knobs may be making scratchy noises.
Check your nut slot height, and replace or shim if needed. A rule of thumb is to be able to pass a thin sheet of paper through the first fret slot.
Frets
Frets are strips of metal—generally, an alloy of nickel and brass—embedded along the fretboard on a stringed instrument. When a bass string is depressed against a fret, it vibrates for a longer or shorter period of time and produces a specific note.
When a fret becomes worn, it can create string buzzing and/or rattles. This can lead to intonation issues and inhibit smooth string bends.
Generally speaking, a bass’s frets can be leveled and re-crowned several times before they require replacement. Eventually, however, they will reach the point where they can no longer be repaired and must be replaced. This is usually around the point where a fret has a flat crown (see Fig. 2) or even worse, has a deep pit. A fret that has a flat crown can cause intonation problems, string rattle, and impede smooth string bends.
A luthier can level a fret by grinding and sanding it with a specialized tool. In doing so, the luthier makes the fret flat again—like it was before it was sanded down with the levelling beam—but also makes sure that the top of the fret is still round (Fig. 4). This process is called re-crowning and is something that only an experienced luthier can do properly.
Another common way that a fret can wear out is by using the wrong type of string. Some players choose to use stainless steel strings, which can be very hard on nickel frets. These strings will increase the amount of corrosion on a bass’s frets and can dramatically decrease the lifespan of those frets, leading to more frequent bass guitar fret repair work and possibly costing a bass owner more money in the long run.
A great way to keep a fretboard healthy is by applying lemon oil or fretboard conditioning oil, which will clean and hydrate the wood, helping it to last longer and hold the frets’ shape better. Also, remember to always remove a capo when playing, as this puts much more pressure on the frets than just your fingers—it can be very damaging to them over time.
Headstock
The headstock is the bit of wood on the end of a guitar neck that holds the tuners and provides support for the strings. There are many different types of headstocks, from a standard Gibson or Fender design to more elaborate, inspired designs. Many players have specific requirements for their headstocks; some like certain angles, others are more concerned about the look or strength of the piece. Whatever the desired qualities of a headstock, there are some basic steps to follow when making or repairing one.
First, the headstock must be cleaned to remove any old glue and prevent future rusting or cracking. Then, the desired angle must be chosen. Many players prefer a straight angle, but other factors come into play, including string break angles, production complexity, and even the way that the string is held at the nut. The most popular angle is 11 degrees, used by Gibson and PRS guitars among many other manufacturers.
Once the desired angle is selected, a new section of wood must be inserted to create it. The angled surface of the headstock makes this an especially tricky task; it is usually done with a shaped caul to get the material to sit properly. In the case of this particular bass, I used a piece of mahogany that was previously attached to the rest of the neck, requiring me to cut it to the rough size before gluing.
After a new section is in place, it must be clamped and allowed to dry for several hours or overnight. Once it is completely dry, the tuners may be installed. The next step is to smooth the rough frets, which may require the use of steel wool or other abrasives, depending on the severity of the damage.
Some guitarists choose to make their own headstocks rather than using a stock neck, either because of the desire for a custom look or to take advantage of the advantages of a particular type of wood. To do this, you must first make a square or another straight edge and mark a line on the side of the neck at about 5″ down from the top. Then, you must draw a line on the other side of the neck at about 5 1/4″ down from the front; this will be your bottom bevelled edge for the headstock.
Hardware
The materials and construction of your bass are major factors in how long it lasts, so a solid build with top-notch woods, hardware, and careful craftsmanship goes a long way. But even the best built basses benefit from regular upkeep. Some of the most important things you can do to keep your guitar at peak performance include changing strings on a regular basis, tweaking the truss rod occasionally, and swapping out parts that have seen better days – like output jacks and bridge saddles.
Another maintenance task that is a staple for all basses is tuning the instrument to a standard pitch. Most bassists have their own preference for a specific key, but it is essential to tune the instrument to the correct pitch to get the most out of it. A properly tuned bass will remain in tune longer than one that is not, and the string vibrations will be more evenly spread throughout the instrument for a better sound.
Some bassists also choose to have the frets on their instrument modified (dressed) periodically to eliminate dead spots and abrasions in the frets caused by playing over years. This is a common and fairly simple process.
A tech might also adjust the intonation of the instrument by adjusting the pitch of the individual strings so that they are all in tune with each other. This is usually done by using a specialized tool called a strobe tuner.
Finally, a good tech will inspect the instrument for cracks in the body and neck, nicks in the shielding or cable insulation that might cause hum, and weak batteries on “outboard” devices such as effects boxes, tuners, and preamps. These problems can be a big frustration for a musician who wants to play a gig, and a guitar tech is responsible for troubleshooting the problem and repairing it quickly.
Aside from the above, a bassist should clean his instrument periodically with luthier’s wax or a non-toxic fretboard cleaner to maintain a healthy finish. He should also store the bass in a case with a humidity control system or a basic humidifier that attaches to the guitar case and holds a sponge that is moistened regularly, and he should keep a humidity meter in the case to check it periodically.
Strings
The strings are the lifeblood of your bass guitar, and the key to keeping them long-lived is regular maintenance. Whether you’re playing regularly or just jamming, change your strings often enough to keep them from getting stale and dull. You should also be sure to keep them clean – a little rubbing alcohol goes a long way in keeping your strings healthy and sounding great!
While any bassist can change their own strings, it’s always a good idea to bring your bass to a professional luthier for a setup. This is a full calibration of the instrument that includes installing new strings, cleaning the electronics, and adjusting the neck and bridge as needed. A full setup is the best thing you can do for your bass, and it will make it easier to play, stay in tune, and sound better.
When you’re changing your strings, it’s a good idea to loosen the tension by turning the tuning peg counterclockwise. Then, remove each string from the peg slowly to avoid tangling or damaging your basses hardware. Once the strings are removed, clean any hardware that’s exposed on your bass, such as strap pins and bridge saddles. These pieces can collect a lot of dirt and grime over time, so it’s important to keep them clean to ensure that they don’t rust or damage the wood on your bass.
Lastly, it’s a good idea to store your bass in a case when you’re not using it. This will help to protect it from temperature and humidity changes, which can cause the wood to warp or crack. It’s also a good idea to use a humidifier in your home during the winter, as this will help to keep the air in your house drier and more comfortable for your bass.
There’s a lot that goes into the life of a bass, and many of these issues can be resolved with just a bit of knowledge and some simple tools! With a little care and regular maintenance, your bass can last for decades and continue to crank out that groove you love so much.