Chris takes great care and pride in fully rebuilding a banjo so that all its components work in concert for optimal performance. Although this requires more time than a quick string/head setup, his high quality craftsmanship more than makes up for this additional step!
Refitting of the Flange Tube to the Tone Ring and Repair of Minor Rim Delamination by Hand
Rebuilding
A banjo fitting is a threaded connector used to join fluid lines together on the rear of an automobile. It consists of a male JIC (Jacking In Compression) threaded adapter joined to a female hose barb with an integral copper crush washer to seal between it and caliper body; additionally it can also be found on retainers, brake pistons and guide pin boots.
My 1987 Turbo Coupe’s calipers are sticking, so they require rebuilding. First I sprayed all guides, pins, and banjo bolts with PB blaster before removing and locking in a vise with aluminum jaw inserts to protect from damage; this prevents clamping of both bleeder valves and emergency brake shafts by the vise.
Check the bleeder holes on front calipers for obstructions, especially if the bleeder does not work as it should. If it doesn’t open it may be because the seat in the caliper is incorrect or that its valve doesn’t open; some bleeders have small metal covers covering their holes which you can remove to see if bleeders are blocked; if that is the case use clear tubing to place on end and apply pressure to force fluid through. If that fails too use clear tubing to put onto open bleeders to force fluid out via suction to bleed them off, which allows bleeders to open again and become operational again.
Make sure the caliper ends and banjo bolts are thoroughly clean, including their threads. Bleeder valves should be covered by either a rubber vacuum cap or tied over with a nitrile glove so your son can stick his finger into it until bleeding has taken place. Test seals by pushing on the caliper; if it moves then that means there is something amiss with one of its seals.
Repairs
Banjo fittings are essential components of hydraulic systems in various industries, from automotive to plumbing. They ensure a leak-free connection between hydraulic lines and their respective components for an effective and leak-free flow of liquid. This comprehensive guide to banjo fittings examines their various sizes and applications while offering tips for finding quality suppliers.
A banjo fitting consists of three components: the banjo bolt, body, and collar. The threaded banjo bolt passes through both parts to secure the hose or tube and both bodies and collars are constructed out of metal to withstand high temperatures and pressures; additionally, banjo bolt features flat surfaces that can be sealed using a sealing washer for additional security.
Banjo fittings are essential parts of hydraulic systems and also used in automotive brake and fuel lines, offering superior resistance to high temperatures and pressures as well as having improved sealing over traditional fittings. Furthermore, their easy installation/dismantle properties make them an excellent option for use in confined spaces.
JEGS provides an assortment of banjo fittings in various diameters and configurations, suitable for cars, trucks and boats of various kinds as well as industrial equipment or high-pressure applications. Steel is often chosen as the material due to its strength and durability while brass provides greater heat tolerance while resisting corrosion.
Before installing a banjo fitting, ensure all components are thoroughly cleaned of dirt or debris and that any bolts, unions, seals are in good condition for inspection. Inspect bolts, unions and seals closely for signs of wear or damage as any damaged pieces should be promptly replaced before continuing the installation process.
After thoroughly cleaning all components, carefully thread a banjo bolt through the hole in the union. Care must be taken not to cross-thread, as cross-threading may lead to damage and leaks. Once in place, two sealing washers should be placed either side of the bolt. Once tightened to their manufacturers’ recommended torque level – overtightening may deform them or compromise seal integrity, while under-tightening could create an loose fit which fails under pressure.
Setups
If you plan on owning a banjo, it is imperative that you know how to set it up and care for it properly. Doing this will ensure it remains in top condition, sounds great and is ready for whatever comes its way. Banjos contain numerous adjustable components such as strings that wear out over time; heads which sag; bridges sag with wear & tear. For optimal functioning of your instrument you must ensure regular maintenance checks to keep its condition at an optimum level.
To change a banjo head, begin by loosening its tailpiece attachment lug (and unbricking any bridge if applicable), before using your bracket wrench to gradually loosen each of the bracket lugs at each of the four N, S, E and W points on its tension hoop rim – loosen each lug gradually and its opposite in order to minimize stress on any individual point on its surface.
Once all bracket lugs have been unlatched, lifting and removing the tension hoop should be straightforward. Next, carefully inspecting both tone ring and tension hoop for small burrs or surface irregularities that might damage a new head; file these out if necessary. Brass hoops require special consideration; their bottom edge needs to be completely flat otherwise its warp could compromise tone quality over time and compromise volume and tone quality.
Once the new head is securely in place, its crown should have an even depth across its circumference. When replacing copper crush washers it would also be wise to change out any old ones as over time they tend to “work harden,” meaning that bending copper means its soft edges won’t return quite so readily like they once did prior to its bending.
Once the head is installed, tighten the bracket lugs one by one until they feel secure without being so tight as to cause distortion. Play your banjo for several minutes in order to gauge its bass response; loosen or tighten brackets as necessary depending on what sounds good to you – perhaps loosen if too thin; tighten again if all sounds right!
Custom Work
Malone Specialty carries an assortment of Carbon Steel Banjo Couplings and 316 Stainless Steel Banjo Fittings designed to suit various engine configurations, in various sizes to suit them all. We carry everything from male JIC-to-female Banjo adapters; an Adjustable Metric to BSPP with and without O-Ring adapter; Full Passage or Throttle Free Banjo Bolt Adapters with O-Ring; Double to Dual Banjo Adapters with O-Ring; Double to Dual Banjo Hose Barbs as well as various configurations of other Banjo Adapter types & configurations! We do a large variety of custom work, so don’t hesitate to contact us with your requests or inquiries!